The summer when I was 19 going on 20, I worked at a Po Folks restaurant near the interstate in Bowling Green, Kentucky. For those of you not familiar with Po Folks, it was sort of a down-market Cracker Barrel, serving the same type of fare and offering every type of sugary soft drink imaginable in a mason jar, before mason jars became appropriated by hipsters and Pinterest enthusiasts. In many ways, it was the hardest job I have ever had, lugging trays of country fried steaks to tables of ten, all of whom required constant Fanta orange refills, and all in exchange for a dollar bill tucked into a miniature Gideon Bible left as a tip. The night I made $40 in tips — and on an all-you-can-eat night, no less — I was practically a celebrity.
I am pretty sure I lived in a bubble when I was 19 going on 20, and although I never would have characterized myself this way then, it is fair to say that I was young and dumb. Several truths of the Po Folks job have revealed themselves to me only with the passage of time. The older man — the one who sat with his daughter in my section every Tuesday evening and thought that I was his wife — had dementia. The woman who came to hear live music every Friday — the one with Sharpie drawings for eyebrows and a terrible wig that rested midway on her forehead — had alopecia. The bad tattoos on some of the grizzled servers and kitchen staff may very well have come from prison, and when the kitchen staff found out that I was headed for law school and peppered me with questions on behalf of friends about increasingly bizarre “accidental” situations in which they found themselves, those questions were really about their own lives.
It was hard work, and often frustrating, and it’s the only job I’ve ever had where every night featured a stress dream, hungry people yelling while I sleep-rearranged fried chicken or fried steak on the covers pooled at the end of my bed. But I will say this for that job: It was probably the most important job that I have ever had for a number of reasons, ranging from an encyclopedic knowledge of every country music song from the summer of 1987 to the sheer gratitude that I feel every day for having the good fortune of making a living from my brain instead of my back. While I promptly burned the mauve calico apron and matching hair bow that was part of the official Po Folks uniform, the name tag has stayed with me for 30 years:
(Yes, it features my name burned on a wood chip.)
My son is 19 going on 20 this summer, and in February or so, he started thinking about a summer job. He ended up being hired by the Maine Conservation Corps, a group that falls under the umbrella of AmeriCorps. When he got the job, he had visions of walking alone along Maine trails, a hand saw tucked into his ultra-light backpack, and assisting wayward hikers while he had Zen moments in rapid succession. Reality hit when he received a supply list that included (in no particular order) steel-toed boots, work pants, three different types of work gloves, full rain gear, and basic camping equipment. The list led to questions like Dickies versus Carhartts, pants versus overalls, and high boots versus not as high boots. (In case you’re interested, the answers are Carhartts, both, and high boots.) And the list did not include hard hats and safety goggles, both of which would be supplied by the program. For whatever reason, he did not qualify for chain saw training, which would have necessitated other supplies.
You may be thinking, Even though he did not qualify for chain saw training, aren’t you worried about him, tramping around the back woods of Maine? There is only one correct answer: I am absolutely terrified. But to put this in perspective, I am absolutely terrified about my children’s safety any time when I cannot see them and occasionally even when I can. I can go down that rabbit hole when they drive 2.4 miles from home to Publix to pick up eggs — if you have ever seen Savannah drivers, you would totally understand — and when they assure me that they can safely climb an extension ladder to trim the creeping fig off the house in the rain. I cannot let it stop them or me, for that matter. It is just there.
So he flew last weekend from Savannah to LaGuardia to the tiny airport in Portland, Maine. He was smart enough to insist on Chick-Fil-A biscuits before he left, and kind enough to text his mother immediately upon arrival. He walked around Portland for a few hours, made his way to an Airbnb that I vetted and he booked, and while the description hinted of homemade bread and a free yoga class, it really resulted in his being loosed on the streets of Portland at 7 a.m. last Sunday. He walked around some more, dashed off a postcard that arrived a few days ago, and took a Greyhound bus to Augusta, Maine, a two hour trip with four stops over 45 miles.
And so began the adventure.
But first, it didn’t. Augusta is a town of 18,000 people — about the size of Moultrie, my hometown — and the third smallest state capital in the United States. This prompted only one question: What are the two smaller ones? And before he left, we spent one dinner looking into it. The smallest state capital is Montpelier, Vermont, with about 7,000 or 8,000 people. The next smallest is Pierre, South Dakota. I managed to wind up on Trip Advisor’s page about Pierre and perused the top ten attractions in the city. Several of them were restaurants and bars, one of them was a memorial statue, and my hands-down favorite was number four, the Trail of Governors, a short walking trail where one could stroll by bronze statues of (what else?) South Dakota governors.
I am not sure that I had the wherewithal to look up the top ten attractions of Augusta, Maine, because it is a very long slide indeed from the pinnacle of the Trail of Governors.
But he was there for a few days, with no phone coverage and with first aid and training courses to attend, and then he shipped out to the wilderness. We got a text from him saying that he was safe and a little cold and wet, and then we got a text asking how life was at our plush office jobs.
He finally got phone coverage yesterday — Saturday — while Chris and I were eating our own Chick-Fil-A biscuits. His crew of eight had been assigned to clear a trail at a summer camp, and in a rare bit of luxury, they stayed in cabins while they worked. As a veteran of many (previously cleared) trails, he was surprised and impressed by the sheer amount of work that it took to make a path. He talked about something that I thought was a Pic-matic, which sounded for all the world like a powered rock buster, but what was really a pick-mattock, which is a rock buster powered by my son. He was constantly hungry (which, like my fear about his safety, is nothing new), and he was often bone tired. He also sounded about happier than I had ever heard him: out in the woods, with freedom, making a little money, working hard, doing something entirely different. He planned to hike on his days off with his crew-mate Josh — who was impossibly from Bowling Green, Kentucky — and then drive up and down the Maine coast, seeing the same familiar ocean that lapped his home lapping an unfamiliar place. I am so happy for him, and only a little bit envious.
I tell my children constantly that you are old a lot longer than you are young. I try to stress to them to do things that they really want to do, for there is no time better than now. I warn them that one day they will wake up afraid, and that it may take them a while to clear their own trail through that particular forest. I am so proud of him right now, and I know that he will not forget this summer.
One of my favorite features on my phone is the weather app. I have five cities that immediately come up, in this order: Savannah, Athens, New York, Paris, and now Augusta. I can tell you that it is now 63 degrees and mostly sunny in Augusta, Maine, that sunset is at 8:12 p.m., that sunrise is 4:59 a.m. tomorrow, and that he may need that rain gear on Monday. I went to Maine the summer before my senior year of high school, and I can still remember its beauty. I can picture it enough in my mind’s eye so that I can place my son, no longer a child but still hungry and a little tired, waking up and pausing for a moment before grabbing the pick-mattock and heading into the woods. I can see the sun streaming in and I can feel the cool air and I can almost be overwhelmed by the blues and the greens and the browns of the wilderness. He is there, and he is happy, and 30 years from now, he will begin to understand all that he could not understand in the moment.
ALC